Overseaming sewing-machine.



"0-650197. Patented May 22, I900. s. A. BRANDON.

OVERSEAMING SEWING MACHINE.

(Applica tion filed Dec. 25, 189B.) (NoModeL) 4 Sheets-Sheet l.

m: NORRIS warms ca. vnorou-ma, wsnmswm u. c.

No. 650,297. Patented May 22', I900.

s. A. BRANDON. DVERSEA'MING SEWING MACHINE.

(Application filed Dec. 28, 1898.)

4 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.)

' Patented May 22', I900. S. A. BRANDON. UVEBSEAMING SEWING MACl-HNE.

(Application flled'Dec. 28,1898.)

(No Model.)

4 Sheds-Sheet s.

No. 650,297. Patented May 22, .1900.

S. A. BRANDON. DVERSEAMING SEWING MACHINE.

(Application fil ed Dec. 28, 1898.) (No Model.) a 4 Shaets$haet 4.

i UNITED ST T T PATENT QFFICE.

'srErnEN ANDRE BRANDON, or LEIPSIC, GERMANY, AssIeNoR'ro DOUGLAS HORACE BRANDON, or PARIS, FRANCE.

OVERSEAMING SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 650,297, dated May 22, 1900.

Application filed December 28, 1898 fierial No. 700,537. (No model.)

T aZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, STEPHENANDRE BRAN- PON, mechanical engineer, a subject of the Queen of Great Britain, residing at Leipsic, in the Empire of Germany, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Ma chines for Overseaming Fabrics; and I do hereby declare that the following is a full, clear, and exact specification of the same.

This invention has relation to sewing-machines adapted generally for producing felled seams, and particularly for sewing cut knitted goods or hosiery.

As is well known, the'cut edges ofknitted goods curl or roll up, rendering it difficultto hem such goods, and prior to my invention it has been proposed to overcome this difficulty by combining with suitable stitch-forming appliances a suitable hemmer and appliances for uncurling the edges of the goods before said edges are folded over and pre-. sented to the stitch-forming appliances.

My invention has for its object a construction of sewing =machine whereby the described appliances aredispensed with, but which is simple in so far as its operative mechanism is concerned, not more liable to get out of repair than any ordinary sewing-machine, and whereby flat and pliable simple felled scams, or what is known as the French.

felled seam may be produced.

. Referring to the accompanying drawings, Figures 1 and 3 are side elevations, partly in section and showing the stitch-forming appliaucesin different positions; and Fig. 2 is an end elevation of a sewing-machine embodying my invention. Fig. 4isadetail side elevation illustrating more clearly the presserfoot, the work or needle plate, and the guide for the felling-needle, the partsbeing shown in their respective positions illustrated in Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a plan view, partly in section, of the parts shown in Fig. 4; and Figs. 6, 6 7, S, and 9 are seam-sections on a larger scale, Fig. 6 illustrating the mannerin which the sewing is done in existing two-needle machines for prod ucin g a double or French felled scam in one operation applied to woven materials only, Fig. 6 illustrating the manner in which sewing is done generally in the case of knit goods, Fig. 7 illustrating the manner in which a French felled seam is produced on my improved machine, Fig. 8 showing the material unfolded after removal from the ma chine, and Fig. 9 illustrating a simple felled seam also produced onmy improved machine by dispensing with one of the needles,

Referring to Figs. 1, 2, and 3, A indicates the frame of the machine, which may be of any desired and suitable shape and construction for carrying the operating parts. 7

a is the bed-plate, and a is the needle or work plate.

B is the driving-shaft, which is suitably carried in the lower part of the frame A underneath the bed-plate a, and carries at its outer-end the usual driving-pulley b. This shaft B carries a spherical eccentric b next to the pulley b and which works in an eccentric-strap c of corresponding shape formed on the lower end of a connecting-rod O, the upper end of which is formed by a second strap 0, that embraces a ball D. This ball is connected by means of a screw-threaded tail-piece d and of a lock-nut cl to a bent or bell-crank lever E for operating the needlebars. This lever is keyed on a conical axle c, which is journaled in any suitable manner on the frame A of the machine, and it is oscillated from shaft B through the mechanism above describednamely, the eccentric b,

ball-bearing D, and connecting-rod C. To the free end of the upper arm e of the bent lever E is pivoted one end of a link e whose other end is pivoted to a sleeve f, fast on the needle-bar F, which, as shown in the drawings, is arranged obliquely. This needle-bar F reciprocates in guides a a on the frameA and carries at its lower end the needle f, which is fixed thereto in any suitable or usual manner.

G is the felling-needle bar, which, like the needle-bar F, is arranged obliquely and reciprocates in guides a a of the frame A. The needle-bar Gr carries a sleeve 9 analogous to the sleeve f, to which is pivoted at g one end of a connecting-rod g, the other end of which is pivoted to the free end of the leverarm a of the lever E. At the lower end the needle-bar G carries the felling-needle 9 which is secured thereto in any suitable or usual manner.

f is the'thread for the needle f, and g is the thread for the needle 9 These threads pass ov-ersuitable tension devices and through guiding-eyes, as shown,which do not form any part of the invention, as they may be of any known construction and arrangement and need, therefore, not be described in detail.

, h and h indicate, respectively, a looper'eooperating'with the needle f and a lo'oper cooperating with the felling-needle g These two loopers are mounted on a support or frame H, on which they oscillate lengthwise of the bed plate or in planes at right angles tothe planes of reciprocation of the needle-bars, but in the opposite direction to each other about the rockers k and h respectively. The frame H is suitably journaled in fixed bearings A A? A in such a manner as to be capable of oscillationin a direction crosswise of the bed-plate under the action of an cecentric b?, which is mounted on the drivingshaft B and operates in a fork h on the loopersupport H, which is secured to suitable spindles S and S for the purpose, as clearly shown in Figs. 1 and 3. The longitudinal oscillatory movement on their rockers h andh is imparted to, the loopers h and h, respectively, by means of connecting-rods h and h, which are jointed at one of their ends to the tails of the respective loopers h and h, while the.

other-ends are jointed by means of ball-ands'ockct or spherical joints k h to a. common studor pin 11, which is journaled in the. lower end of a lever I, keyed on the pivot stud or pin e of lever E. I

J is a presser-foot of any ordinary or suitable. construction; but its foot plate j is formed, as shown in the drawings, in a special manner and isprovided on its underside in the transverse direction with a projecting ridge j in the form of a V, cooperating with atransverse groove or recess a of correspond-.

ing; shape in cross-section formed in the workplate a. This arrangement has for its o b ject", as. will be readily understood. by reference to'FigJt, facilitating the folding of. the knitted fabric or other material into the.

desired shape. I Immediately behind the nee dle g the plate j of the presser-foot is recessed or cut out, as shown at 7' in order to allow, as will be explained later on, the cut edge of thelkni'ttedfabric to move nearer to the place where the needle 9 in felling is entering the thickness of the fold of the top layer of such fabric. In other words, the plate j of the presser-foot is made substantially in the form e In Fig. t I have shown a sleeve k, adjust- Immediately in front of the place where the sewing-needle f is stitching there is arranged a knife is, Fig. 5, of the usual or other suitable construction, which cuts the knitted material at the'desired place and which may be operated by,auy suitable or known means.

ably secured by means of ,a set-screw 7a to the teller-needle bar G, said sleeve having a flat surface 70 forming a bearing for and to which is secured the knife K by means of screws k said knife working in an aperture a in the work-plate a, Figs. 4 and 5. Referring to Fig. 4, Land M indicate, respectively, the upper and lower layers of a knitted fabric. vAt the place Nwhere, as will be hereinafter seen, the felling-needleg enters the thickness of. the upper layer L there is arranged asmall guard-plate 0, designed to prevent the-needle g from entering also the lower layer ofthe knitted fabric M and inameasure regulate the depth of penetration' of said needleinto and throughthe 'upper layer. Thisguard-plate is particularly necessary in the case of thin materials, but in the case of very thick materials'it. may be dispensed with if desired. The said plate 0 is fixed to or formed onthe end of a small arm 0, that is secured to the work-plate a in an adjustable manner, by means of aclampingscrew 0", working in a slot 0 ot" the arm 0, Fig.5.

Thempde ofoper'ation of this machine is asfollows: In Fig. l the parts. are shown at the end of the upward strok--that.is to say,

at the moment when. the two needles have jmoved out of the material. In Fig. 3 the parts are .shown at the end of their downstroketh at is to say, at. the moment when the driving-shaft B has described half a revolution, starting from the position shown in Fig. 1. The'two needles have completely entered the material to form the stitches. Both needles 1 g sewv in the, usual manner with chain -stitch, either with one or two threads, the two thicknesses or layers of the material, into which the needle f enters at P and the'needle g at N,'Fig. 4. I willthereforehot dilate upon their action nor upon the manner'in which the stitch is formed, because these are 'matters that are well known. I will also not dilate any further upon the actionof the knife K, which cuts thetwo thicknesses of the material inad- Qvance of'thejplace'where theneedle f is stitching said material in the well-known manner. .In ,its downstroke the needle 9 pierces first through the thickness of the top layer L of the two layers of material at the point N, (the plate 0 preventing it from penetrating into the lower layer M at that point.) Then it passes through both layers Land M quite close to their cut edges and by tightening the stitch fells the two edges of the material outside the stitching P upon the upper layer L, as is clearly shown in Fig.

7, in which Q indicates the felled seam.

the sewing-needle f is dispensed with, and,

if desired, the shape of the presser-foot, the

'work-plate, and the feeding-claw may be modified, so as to produce a fold of less depth in the material, the sewing being effected with the needle 9 which will produce the simple felled seam shown in Fig. 9, as will be readily understood.

It will be understood that I do not limit myself in the carrying out of my invention to any particular arrangement of knife or of feeding device and that I may produce sewing in simple chain-stitch or in double chain stitch or in any other kind of well-known stitch.

Having thus described myinvention, what I claim as new therein, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is

1. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the bed-plate, the overhanging arm, a needle-bar carrying an eye-pointed needle and reciprocating in bearings in said arm in a plane oblique to said bed-plate, and a looper below the bed-plate cooperatin g with the needle to formthe stitch; of means connected with said bed-platefor presenting two layers of fabric to the needle to cause the same to sew the upper layer to both said layers along a line more or less distant from their edges, for the purpose set forth. c

2. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the stitch-forming appliances comprisin g two needle-bars reciprocating at an angle to each other; of means for presenting two layers of fabric to the needles so as to cause one of them to sew together both layers to form a seam parallel with their free edges, and so as to cause the other needle to sew the upper layer along a similar line on one side of the seam formed by the first needle to bot-h layers on the opposite side thereof, for the purpose set forth.

. 3. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the stitch-forming appliances comprising two needle'bars reciprocating at an angle to each other; of means for presenting two layers of fabric to the needles so as to cause one of them to sew together both layers to form a seam parallel with their free edges, and so as to cause the other needle to pass through the upper layer on one side of the aforesaid scam and between the upper and lower surfaces of said upper layer and sew the same to both layers on the opposite side'of such seam, for the'purposc set forth.

4. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the stitch-forming appliances, comprisin'g two needle-bars reciprocating at an angle to each other, and a work-plate having a recess or throat V-shaped in cross-section; of means for holding, during the stitch-forming operation, two layers offabric in said recess so as to conform to the angularity thereof and so as.to cause one of the needles to sew both layers together along a line parallel with the apex of the angle of said recess and so as to cause the other needle to sew the upper layer, on one side of the seam formed by the first needle, to both layers on the opposite side of said seam, for the purpose set forth.

5. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the stitch-forming appliances comprisin g two needle-bars reciprocating at an angle to each other, and a work-plate having a recess or throat V-shaped in cross-section; of a presser-foot provided with a ridge or projection corresponding in shape to that of the recess in said work-plate for holding, during the stitching operation, two layers of fabric so as to conform to the angularity of saidrecess and so as to cause one of the needles to sew the layers of fabric together alonga line parallel with the apex of the angle of the aforesaid recess and so as to cause the other needle to pass through the upper layer on one side of the seam formed by the firstneedle, and sew said upper layer to both layers.

on the opposite side of said seam, for the purpose set forth.

6. In a sewing-machine, the combination with the stitch-forming appliances, compris in g two needlebars reciprocating at an angle to each other, and means for presenting two layers of fabric to the needles so as to cause one of them to sew both layers together along a line parallel with their free edgesandto cause the other needle to sew the upper layer on one sideof the seam formed by the first needle to bothlayers on the opposite side thereof along their free edges, and a reciprocating knife for cutting the said free edges outside. of and along the edge seam, for the purpose set forth.

7. In a sewingunachine, the combination with stitch-forming appliances comprising two needle-bars having motion in bearings at an angle to each other, and mechanism for reciprocating the same, comprising a rotating shaft, the bent leverE, a connection between the latter and said shaft organized toimpart an oscillating motion to the lever, the connecting-link 6 connecting the arm 6' ofsaid lever E with one of the needle-bars, and the connecting-rod q connecting the other arm e of the lever with the other needle-bar; of means for presenting two layers of fabric to the needles so as to cause one of them to sew their free edges, for the purpose set forth.

8. In a sewing-machine, the combination ICC with the stitch-forming appliances, connpris ing two needle-bars arranged at an angle to each other, and an oscillatinglooper, for each needle-bar, coeperating with the needle thereof to form the stitch of a rocking shaft, mechanism operated thereby for reciprocating the needle-bars and for oscillating the loopers,.

, and means for presenting two layers of .fab-

ricto'the needles so as to cause one of them to sew both layerstogeth'er on a line parallel with their freeedges, and so as to cause the other needle to sew the upper layer on one side of the seam formed by the first needle to both layers on the opposite side of said seam along their free edges, for the purpose set forth.

9. In a sewingmachine, the combination with two needle-bars arranged at an angle .to eachother, a looper for each needle-bar cooperating with the needle thereof to form the stitch, and a support common to both loopers and on which support said loopers have oscillating motion; of a rotating shaft,

a rock-shaft, mechanism operated by the rotating shaft to rock'said rock-shaft, a radial arm on the last-named shaft, and connect-ingrods connecting the tails of the loopers with said radial arm, for the purpose set forth.

. the purpose set forth.

r" 11. The combination with the needle-bars Fahd G, the lever E and connections between the arms of'said lever and said needlebars respectively, the stud or spindle e on which saidlever is secured, the radial arm I fast on said spindle, the shaft B, theeccentries 12 b thereon, the ball-bearing D secured to lever E, and the connecting-rod O; of the looper-support H'journaled in fixed bearings I and provided with a bearing h for the eccentric b the loopers h, h, secured to and having rocking motion on support H, and the connecting-rods 71, it connected with the radial arm I and with the heels or tails of the loopers h h respectively, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

- 12'. In a sewing-machine, the combination withthe bed-plate and the work-plate a havingthe angularrecess (1 of two needle-bars reciprocating at an angle to each other, one

of said needle-bars arranged to pass through the work-plate at vthe apex of the angleformed;

V by the aforesaid recess, the other needle-bar arranged to pass close above the vertical side and through the opposite inclined side of said as and for the purpose set forth.

recess, and two oscillating loopers below the bed+p1ate and coeperating respectively with the needlescarried by the needle-bars to form thestitch; of a single driving-shaft revoluble in bearings below said bed-plate, and mechanism operated by said shaft for'reciprocating the needle-bars and for oscillating the loopers, for the purpose set forth.

13. In a sewing-machine, thecombination with the bed-plate and the work-plate a having the angular recess a of two needle-bars reciprocating at an angle to each other, one of said needle-bars arranged to passthrough the work-plate at the apex of the angle formed by the aforesaid recess, the other needle-bar arranged to pass close above the vertical side and through the opposite inclined side of said recess,'a presser-foot for holding the two layers of fabric along their free edges in,and so as to conform to said angular recess, and two oscillating loopers below the bed-plate and 00- operating respectively with the needles carried by the needle-bars to form the stitch; of a single driving-shaft revoluble in bearings below said bed-plate, and'mechanism oper-- ated by said shaft for reciprocating the needle-bars and for oscillating the loopers, for

p the purpose set forth; 10. In a sewing-machine, the combination 14. In a sewing-machine, the combination with stitch forming appliances comprising two needle-bars reciprocating at an angle to each other, and means for'presenting two layers of fabric to the needles so as to cause one of said needles to sew both layers together and so as to cause the other needle to sew the upper layeron one side of thes'eam formed by the first needle to'both layers on the opposite side thereof; of means cooperating with the last-named needle for regulating its depth of penetration into and through the upper one of the two layers of fabric, for the purpose set forth.

15. In a sewing-machine such as described,

the, combination with the work-plate a provided withthe angular recess a and stitch forming appliances comprising the obliquelyreciprocating needle-bar G and its needle; of

vthe guard-plate O, substantially as and for the'purpose set forth. I

- 16, In a sewing-machine such as described, the combination with the work-plate a provided with the angular recess a and stitchforming appliances comprising the obliquelyreciprocating needle-bar G and its needle; of the adjustable arm v0 provided at its free end with the-guard-plate O1 lying below the line 7 of reciprocations of the needle, substantially In witness whereof I have hereunto set my hand, this 5th day of December, 1898, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

STEPHEN ANDRE BRANDON.

Witnesses 1 RUDOLPH Felons,

PAUL KNABE. 

